'Costume Art' exhibition at the Met (opens in a new tab)
Explore more information about the exhibition including tickets and how to visit
Sinéad Burke reflects on the range of consulting support that Tilting the Lens provided to The Met’s Costume Institute – from language framing, curation advice on representation of disability, catalogue drafting support, to training volunteer guides and accessibility guidance – as well as her personal involvement with their 2026 exhibition ‘Costume Art’ and the Met Gala.
In November 2024, I received an email from Andrew Bolton, the Curator in Charge at the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.
I first met Andrew in the restaurant at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London during the press preview of his touring exhibition, ‘Savage Beauty’. That was over 15 years ago, and in the time since, I have had the privilege of spending considerable time with Andrew and the wider team at the Costume Institute – always curious, always advocating, always learning.
Andrew’s email read, “I’m working on our spring 2025 and spring 2026 exhibitions. The latter is focused on fashion and the aesthetics of embodiment. I’d love to speak with you about it at some point.” That email led to many, many conversations.

To rewind a little, The Costume Institute, is a curatorial department of the Met focused on fashion and costume design. And to rewind even further (this is relevant, I promise) the Costume Institute began its life called the Museum of Costume Art, a venture by Irene and Alice Lewisohn, as they worked in theatre and developed an archive of costume, set and stage design. The Costume Art Museum was expanded into the Met in 1946, but remained independently run until 1959, when it became a curatorial department.
From 1946 to now, the Costume Institute is solely responsible for fundraising to cover and fund the department’s operating expenses. It is the only curatorial department at the Met required to raise its own operating funds. The first Met Gala was designed and hosted in 1946 to fund these operating costs, and it has grown from there.
The 2026 exhibition ‘Costume Art’ came through many iterations over that time, and is now open in the Condé Nast Galleries at the Met, celebrating seven types of body, including a section on the ‘Disabled Body’ and how it shows up in both fashion and art.
Over the past 18 months, Tilting the Lens has been proud to support the Costume Institute with a number of key objectives:
On a personal level, I also contributed to the exhibition via:
‘Costume Art’ is an exhibition that underscores the validity of fashion as art, if it was ever in question. It also demonstrates how, unlike many other forms, an argument could be made that fashion exceeds art, due to the transforming nature of embodiment. But what does this mean? In plainer terms, when a person wears fashion, it evolves from being an object, a piece or a garment, and becomes movement, and evolves based on the wearer. This is both what makes fashion art, and extends beyond it.
The Costume Institute has consistently explored the body and fashion, but this exhibition had two specific objectives: the first is to draw on the artistic endeavours of the Met’s other curatorial departments, creating a specific link between the Costume Institute’s collections, and more traditional work such as sculpture, fine art and more. The connecting tissue is the body. The abstract body, the Disabled body, the corpulent body, the inscribed body, the anatomical body, the aging body, the vital body, and the mortal body are centred in the Costume Institute connecting to relevant artworks and objects from across the museum.
The second objective was to increase the representation of bodies, and in turn, mannequins at the Costume Institute. In 2023, curator Mellissa Huber’s exhibition, “Women Dressing Women” commissioned a mannequin to be made of model, Aariana Rose Philip, and acquired the mannequin made of my body from Proportion London, first created for the Body Beautiful exhibition at the National Museums of Scotland.
Back in 2018 the first mannequin of my body was made through a laborious casting process that took several days for the Body Beautiful exhibition. I had to stand still in one pose, as my body was covered in casting material to make a mould, to then make a mannequin. This is one of the first mannequins of a person with dwarfism to exist, and beyond Edinburgh it has also been on display in the V&A in London, the Met New York, and is about to be included in an exhibition at the V&A in Dundee. It has also acted as a canvas for young fashion designers creating adaptive collections, specifically for little people and those with dwarfism.
A key limitation of this mannequin was the inflexibility of the process and in turn, the pose. If a curator needed a mannequin to be positioned in a specific way, the flexibility and range was limited. For ‘Costume Art’, the Costume Institute sought to trial a different process that would give almost any option.
In August 2025, myself and Laia Cargol Martinez travelled to Brooklyn for ‘photogrammetry’ at New York Capture’s studio. Photogrammetry is the science of obtaining reliable information about physical objects and the environment through the process of recording, measuring and interpreting photographic images and patterns of electromagnetic radiant imagery. In practice, it was a cylindrical machine, with cameras placed three inches apart, covering the entire surface area. There was a small space to step into, and in the centre, every part of your body was in the centre of a lens.

It was an intimidating process. Standing in my underwear and a pair of shoes that didn’t fit, I was encouraged by the team at the Costume Institute to move my body into positions that could be used in this exhibition or a future one. Seeing your body from all angles and perspectives is an act of empowerment, but starts with the need to unpick, challenge, and silence the perspective that with bodies, there is a norm, an ideal, a desirability. We are all the norm, the ideal, and desirable.
With the scans complete, the artist Frank Benson transformed the imagery into “digital clay” and the mannequins were made by Bonaveri in Italy. For this exhibition, each mannequin has a mirror in place of a face, so that visitors can see themselves in the bodies, the garments and the objects.
For Tilting the Lens to consult and support the development of this section of the exhibition was a significant challenge. Our remit began with the title of this thematic section. We were specific and explicit in our naming and referencing, as while the etymology of the words disability and disabled often focus on absence, lacking, or deficiency, we were clear that in our naming of the Disabled Body, it is an exercise in Disability Pride, and an act of continued reclamation. In naming this section ‘Disabled Body’ we wanted Disabled people to feel welcome, to be invited, and to see themselves in the pieces and objectives, and to challenge the absences that continue to exist.
One exhibition alone cannot include all perspectives, all bodies, or all Disabled bodies. That continued exclusion cannot be excused. Instead, it must create an urgency for museums and cultural spaces to continue to invest, expand, partner, and collaborate.
In ‘Disabled Body’ fashion objects and garments are paired with artworks and objects from other curatorial departments across the Met. This pairing of work creates opportunity for new conversations. For example, the exhibition features a four inch marble statue of a person with dwarfism from 332-150 BCE, made close to 2,300 years ago. The sculpture signifies the cultural honor of dwarves in ancient Egyptian society. It is paired with my mannequin, and a Vivienne Westwood t-shirt from 1978, worn as a dress on a little person’s body. Standing in front of the two pieces together, it provokes questions and thoughts – why in one artistic medium is this body-type visible and valued, and in another, that visibility came later, and remains rare? Disabled bodies often had a much earlier presence and prevalence in other artforms, than in fashion.
For ‘Disabled Body’, Tilting the Lens researched design archives for disability-related collections, and lived experiences of designers. Throughout the curatorial process, we suggested key pieces, pairings and ensured that this section of the exhibition was as broad as possible. We also supported the framing and context of this section, ensuring that themes of disability rights, disability pride, and Disability Justice were centered. This practice extended to the exhibition catalogue too. ‘Disabled Body’ also pairs artworks like Street, a photograph by Nolan Trowe. It’s an image taken from a lower height, looking up at the display screen of the inside of an elevator. The screen reads “Street”.
Street is paired with a pair of Levi jeans made in partnership with the Disabled designer, Helen Cookman, and a denim jumpsuit by Lou Dehrot and Louise Linderoth. The jeans are presented on mannequins of Antwan Tolliver and Sonia Vera, both wheelchair users.

This section of the exhibition also features the Disabled designer, Sugandha Gupta, and features mannequins modelled from the bodies of Disabled models, Aariana Rose Philip and Aimée Mullins. It showcases designers, painters and sculptural works that reference Deafness, Blindness, physical disabilities, neurodivergence, and mental illness. It also reveals the gaps that exist in fashion with designers identifying as Disabled, and pathways for Disabled fashion designers to succeed.
For transparency, Tilting the Lens has a scholarship programme with Parsons School of Design – The Parsons Disabled Fashion Student Programme is a fully-funded scholarship to create a pipeline of Disabled fashion talent. We are about to enrol our third cohort of students.
It’s likely that some people who will visit Costume Art, will not have a lot of prior knowledge about disability. The purpose of including the Disabled Body in this exhibition is to communicate that disability is part of the human experience. We are all likely to experience disability and a Disabled body, particularly if we have the fortune to age. Historically, to be Disabled, was to be less than others, to be worthy of pity or shame. Costume Art rejects these ideas and instead, honours the beauty and validity of the Disabled body.
The Costume Art exhibition will be on display until January 2027. A typical Costume Institute exhibition attracts somewhere between 300,000 and 750,000 visitors (WWD 2025) and the volunteer guides support those visitors with brilliant, informative and engaging tours. The guides go through a number of training sessions in preparation for the exhibition opening.
Curators will often host a session about the objects in the exhibition, providing context for the chronology, the background rationale and how some objects came to be acquired. To support the guides in feeling greater confidence in discussing ‘Disabled Body’, Tilting the Lens designed and hosted a virtual training program.
The training covered:
The training was recorded and will hopefully be a useful tool for guides throughout the exhibition run. We know that one training session cannot cover all topics, and for training to be most useful, it has to be followed by action and practice. We will continue to be available to the guides for the duration of the exhibition for queries, and to help solve barriers and challenges as they arise.
I have been advocating for a more accessible Met Gala for almost 20 years. The Met Gala is a fundraiser, a party, and over 80 years, has evolved to become a litmus test for who and what is accepted and valued in fashion. That can be both a positive and a negative, but for many Disabled people, particularly those with physical disabilities, climbing the steps to the Met Gala has always been inaccessible. It has meant that very few physically Disabled people have attended the Met Gala. To the best of our knowledge, it’s Aimée Mullins, and me. I attended the Met Gala once before in 2019.
If Disabled talent can’t access the red carpet and have their photo taken, it’s unlikely fashion brands will sponsor their ticket and invite them to the Gala. It’s a self-fulfilling prophecy.
So, why can’t we make it accessible?
The steps at the front of the Met Museum were designed by Richard Morris Hunt in 1975. They replaced a narrower staircase and today, they are 13.5 feet high and 154 feet long. In 1986, The Met was designated a National Historic Landmark. There are approximately 2,500 National Historic Landmarks in the US, and in theory, they can be altered to be accessible, but under the Americans with Disabilities Act, historic and protected buildings do not have to be compliant if: “the requirements for accessible routes (exterior and interior), ramps, entrances, or toilets would threaten or destroy the historic significance of the building or facility.” – US Access Board.
I am not an architect, but I spend a lot of time with built environment experts, and at Tilting the Lens, moving beyond compliance in this space is one of our key services. I’ve always known that:
In November 2025, I received an email from the team at Vogue that said they were once again putting together a small host committee who reflect the exhibition theme, and that “Anna is hoping to include you”.
I must admit, I didn’t respond straight away.
I knew that this role was an opportunity to leverage change. I couldn’t be there if there wasn’t meaningful access. This was another opportunity to ask for what I and other people need. If you’ve ever received an email from me, you’ll know that they’re usually lengthy, explanatory, optimistic and challenging. So I started drafting and redrafting:
“… I feel a sense of responsibility in what my presence at the Benefit, and even more, my inclusion in the Host Committee could represent. I’m very conscious that in 2019, great consideration of my accessibility needs were taken into account by Vogue, the Met, and Gucci. In the proceeding six years, I’ve invested my time and energy to ensure that change is not just for me. The stairs leading up to the Met is a constant and very visual reminder that for many Disabled people, the Met Gala is not for them. I would like to work with you to see if a solution can be found to ensure that Disabled people can attend, or at the very least, aspire to attend.
I understand that the Metropolitan Museum is in a protected, historic building and adding a ramp to the stairs is not feasible from both a legislative and finance perspective. But, perhaps there is a way to consider the adjacent step-free entrance as a secondary route, one that is as aesthetically pleasing, as engaging, and as welcoming as the stairs.”
And so began many conversations. First with Vogue, and then with the Met. In February 2026, it was confirmed confidentially that the tent would be extended to include the step-free entrance at 81st Street. Disabled guests would arrive, queue for the red carpet, be interviewed by the live-stream, have their photographs taken on the flat surface and go left, rather than up the stairs, to the step-free entrance. Disabled guests would then use the elevator to reach the new fashion galleries and join all other guests.
This is not a perfect solution, but it is progress.
One of Tilting the Lens’ principles is building legacy memory. We want change and the tools for change to not just live with one person, or one department in a company or organisation, but for it to be part of the fabric in how things function long term. This is important, because if that catalyst is taken away for any reason, everything stalls. That’s not the fault of the person, but a failure of the institution. Our work is about cementing that in every project that we do.
This project was no exception.
The Costume Institute has a permanent collection of over 33,000 objects. As per the Costume Institute’s website, the permanent collection is open for research appointments by scholars, graduate students, doctoral students, and designers in relevant fields. In thinking about how we expand fashion academia, support doctoral students to study disability and design, and encourage designers and students to examine the ableism in design systems, the permanent collection must represent and provoke these ideas. I’m really proud to have donated two pieces from my wardrobe to the Costume Institute’s permanent collection for this very purpose.
I donated the Burberry trench coat and crown that was cut and photographed by Tim Walker for the cover of the Business of Fashion’s Age of Influence print issue in 2018. Along with a white cotton Alexander McQueen dress and leather belt that was photographed by Adama Jollah for British Vogue’s May 2023 Reframing Fashion issue, with Tilting the Lens as consulting editors.
I know that for some, fashion is frivolous, expensive, and harmful. It can be all of those things, and it is also an institution that shapes culture, society, and is an extraordinary art form. It has an urgent responsibility to do better for people and the planet, but it is also an industry that we cannot escape from. We all wear clothes.
Explore more information about the exhibition including tickets and how to visit
We drive system change and build a more equitable world for everyone by design. That means the creation of more accessible practices, policies, products, and services. We must model our own guidance and advice, and so our new accessible website is a tangible example of raising standards and reaching best practice.
The website project started for our team in late 2024 and continued until our soft launch at the end of July 2025. It was a significant undertaking for our small business, but when we began we knew that we wanted to open-source our learnings, and use the process to publish recommendations.
Our outcomes are a collaborative effort. We invested considerable time to find a web design partner who shared our ambition in accessibility, and partnered with New Graphic for impactful, user-centred design and development. We also extended our relationship with Cova Communications, who have been our long-time branding and marketing partner, for content strategy and creation, as well as support on user testing.
In our day-to-day consulting practice, our approach uses a framework of co-design. This is where Disabled people are valued as experts in shaping solutions. As a majority-Disabled team, our human-centred design process is by and with Disabled people, never executed ‘for’ them. We value lived experience as intellectual property.
We believe that Disabled expertise is a vital part of the whole design process, not an afterthought, or for auditing when a project is complete. Getting to compliance is only the starting point for us, and when we build with lived experience, we create innovative solutions. We also believe that lived experience deserves fair compensation. Too often, Disabled people are asked to provide feedback without financial recognition. We always ensure that any participants from our research database are paid fairly for their time, insights, and contributions.
We had many business and communication goals for this project and we wrote about why this redesign was needed in “Our Journey to create a beautiful and accessible website”. We set out to prove that appealing and beautiful design does not have to be sacrificed to make an accessible website. And, that a beautiful website can and should provide an enjoyable, comfortable, and independent user experience.
We also had two primary technical accessibility standards that we had to follow.
With the introduction of the European Accessibility Act (EAA) in June 2025, we wanted to demonstrate how to adhere to the new legislation and standards for digital communication. The EAA came into law across the EU with each member state translating the directive into their own local laws. It was created to improve the minimum standards for accessibility across member states and unify those standards. It also is to ensure that more people have access to essential services, and accessible physical and digital products.
The standard we look at for websites is Standard EN 301 549 which can be applied to any type of ICT-based products and services. This includes software (web pages, mobile applications, desktop applications) and hardware (smartphones, personal computers, information kiosks).
We also followed the Web Content Accessibility Guidelines (WCAG), a universal set of standards created to make web content more accessible. WCAG is not legally binding as it is a set of technical guidelines that are used to support compliance with EAA or other laws globally like the ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act). It is a framework for creating accessible digital content with detailed success criteria.
The WCAG framework uses 4 Principles of Accessibility for assessment.
We aim to be compliant with WCAG version 2.2, fulfilling the A and AA requirements, which is the minimum standard for accessible websites. AAA is the highest level of accessibility but some of the success criteria are very strict or depend on user needs that can be in conflict with each other. Because of this, meeting all AAA requirements for every part of a site isn’t always possible. Where it was possible to meet AAA criteria, we implemented solutions.
We focused our efforts on delivering a digital experience that meets the following requirements:
The insights from our four rounds of testing during the research, design, and development phases of the project, directly informed crucial decisions. Aside from the WCAG and EAA criteria checklist, here is our advice to bring to your own design process to improve access.
Accessibility is a continuous and evolving practice. Our work doesn’t end with the website launch. It’s important to us that we are transparent around the steps we are taking to continually improve digital access. We are committed to continuous review, updating, and improvement of our website’s accessibility and usability.
Currently, in September 2025, we are conducting a further external independent audit to verify the standards and goals we set out.
We are also updating our internal content guidelines and updating our content archive where older media (PDFs and Videos) may not meet the requirements. We will continue working with assistive technology users to respond to feedback on the website.
If you would like to learn more you can read our accessibility statement.
For designers, developers, and those interested in learning more about accessible digital design, we have put together a detailed breakdown of our four rounds of testing in partnership with Disabled people.
Approach
In the research phase, all teams conducted an audit of the old website and created a matrix and prioritisation for things to improve. We looked at external feedback and findings to create an outline for the website we were going to build.
We participated in a series of workshops led by New Graphic, looking at content and information organisation and site architecture so that we could speak about our work clearly and effectively.

At this design stage, we had flat visual designs in Figma of our key pages and elements. They weren’t interactive so this limited the types of assistive technology that we could test. What was important to test at this early stage, was our use of language, navigation, and core brand elements.
We needed to check that our internal language and assumptions from our wireframes, for services and navigation etc., were going to be “perceivable” and “understandable” for users from the WCAG principles.
Testing our primary brand elements to make confident decisions was essential before we got to development and wasted time and resources.
We deliberately used the word “comfortable” to assess the tester’s experience rather than “prefer” or a simple binary “yes or no”. We were looking beyond comprehension and compliance, and aiming for a feeling of ease. The use of “comfortable” invited our testers to contemplate the experience they were having and rate it on a personal scale, not a legal one.


In the first testing round on a live test site, we focused on independent navigation through the site and accessing all the content on the pages. This included many combinations of devices, browsers, and assistive technology to gain insights through personal experience.
This was phase one of the development process and testing was carried out with only a few pages built and the core components added. We continued with our approach to get the core right before expanding as it is much easier to fix before you expand into other complicated features.
A goal for this round and the next was to test for the fourth WCAG principle, “robust”. Our content and site must be interpreted reliably by a wide variety of user agents, including assistive technologies. We did this by asking each participant to test on two personal devices, and this increased the technology combinations we were getting feedback on. People may not engage with their phone and laptop in the same way.
“I love ‘Client, Date, People, Sector’ on the case studies. You do not have to explore the website or page too much and are given the information immediately which is really lovely.”
“Although clear alt texts were set, there seem to be challenges with some devices and configurations.”
For this round of live testing and part two of our development phase, we took a deep dive into specific and more complex elements. We looked at the filters, news and resource pages, upcoming event cards and team member profiles.
We also revisited our new language in action as we asked participants to perform certain navigation tasks with vague instructions.
We asked binary questions when we asked testers to complete a task, but left openings to add context and detail around their experience.
“Navigation followed a logical structure, with clear focus on headings, textual content, and interactive links etc.”
“Links [on the event card] such as registration or external resources are functional via touch but could benefit from more detailed labels.”